Betta Color Pattern Types

In addition to coming in a variety of tail types, fin varieties and color strains, the Siamese fighting fish, or betta splendens, can display a number of dazzlingly beautiful and exotic patterns. People whobreed, show and sell bettas often refer to the color patterns of bettas in specific terms, which may be confusing to those who are new or unfamiliar to the hobby.

The common terms that refer to betta patterns are as follows:

Solid Betta Pattern

Show-quality bettas that display only a single color should have no iridescence, irregularities, or discoloration. It can be difficult to breed fish that perfectly match this description, and bettas are disqualified from this category if they have sheens, iridescence, or color breaks that differ from the stated solid color.

Classic Bi-Color Betta Pattern

Bi-colored bettas can display many different types of color patterns, but a so-called classic bicolor fish shows a distinct and clear pattern. Its body is of one color, while its fins-- anal, dorsal, and caudal-- are all a completely different shade. The fins and body can be any of the standard, accepted betta colors. The coloration should be clearly delineated; fin colors should not overlap into the body or vice-versa.

Cambodian Betta Pattern

One very common sub-type of the classic bi-color betta is the Cambodian, which is a very popular addition at betta shows and is seen as a desirable trait among breeders. Cambodian bettas have a pinkish-white or salmon-colored body, with highly pigmented fins (usually red). It is also called "pla kat khmer" among betta fanciers.

Mustard Gas Betta Pattern

Another sub-type of the classic bicolor, mustard gas bettas generally have steel-blue bodies with gold or yellow fins. Some betta breeders expand the definition to include bettas with royal blue bodies or turquoise bodies, but the classic definition is often inclusive of blue-and-gold bettas only. The mustard gas color type is also sometimes applies to butterfly bettas exhibiting the defining colors (see below).

Butterfly Betta Pattern

Another very popular feature at betta shows, the butterfly pattern is quite beautiful and may be difficult to breed. Butterfly bettas have body colors that partially blend into the color of the fins, which is ideally a transparent or cellophane color. Additionally, the betta has distinct, dark, oval-shaped markings on the tail and fins, separated from the body dramatically by the pale zone.

Tricolor Butterfly Pattern

Created by crossing choice Cambodian bettas with classic butterflies, tricolor butterfly bettas have three, rather than two, colors, and can present with a variety of stunning patterns and shapes. One form of the tricolor butterfly betta, called the Tutweiler crowntail, is seen as a Holy Grail among betta enthusiasts, but it is very hard to breed.

Classic Marble Pattern

A classic marble betta, also known as a piebald, has a dark body with a pinkish, white, or salmon-colored head. Classic piebalds have no red, green, blue, or steel blue genes that express themselves in the fish's color; they are deliberately bred to eliminate sheen and coloration. They are beautiful in their own right, but may "look sick" the the eye of someone unfamiliar with the strain.

Colored Marble Pattern

Colored marble bettas have the same pattern as classic marble bettas, but with the addition of colors and sheen, including and of the colorations accepted within betta shows. The fins and body should show a very sharp, highly delineated combination of dark and light colors, and its head should be the same salmon-white color as in the classic marble betta.

Irregular Multicolor Bettas

Bettas with no predictable, obvious pattern are considered to be generically multicolored. Often, pet-store varieties of betta display these traits, which may result in blue bettas with red sheens and purplish spots. Wild-type bettas and king bettas which may show a mixture of almost every color imaginable, fall into this category. While many amateur betta enthusiasts find these beautiful, they are deeply frowned-upon in betta shows.

Some tricolor and multicolored bettas, such as those seen in some marble and tricolor butterfly patterns, are still considered to be okay, and even desirable, to breeders. However, many that show no noticable or predictable pattern are considered to be "mutts", bred without any specific goals or selection.

How to Breed Siamese Fighting Fish

Siamese fighting fish and other members of the betta genus are notoriously difficult but rewarding to breed. Many new aquarists find that they are an excellent choice for new fish-breeders seeking a challenge. When done correctly, betta breeding can become an exciting and thrilling hobby, but, when done poorly, it can be disappointing and will lead to many deaths and unwanted, unattractive fish. Proper set-up, pair selection and fry care will give a new hobbyist many years of enjoyment and many dozens of beautiful fry.

Selecting Stock

The selection of a breeding pair is the most critical step that a new breeder must make. The selection of an unsuitable breeding pair is unlikely to result in a completed mating, and, if the two do mate, it is even less likely that their young will be attractive or showable.

When choosing breeding stock, avoid pet stores at all cost. Siamese fighting fish in pet stores are generally over a year old--past the optimum breeding age--and are usually unhealthy. Worse is that pet stores rarely offer certified breeding pairs, and most fish available in the stores are cross-breeds with no verifiable pedigree. As a result, if pet-store bettas breed at all, they will usually result in unpredictable offspring, many of which will have birth defects or poor coloration. Your first pair should only be purchased from a reputable breeder.

Always purchase breeding pairs that are less than one year of age. After this age, the males and females both become somewhat impotent, and fail to breed as prolifically. Bettas usually live no longer than three years, and the younger your pair is, the more time you will have to breed them.

When seeking a pair of bettas to breed, do not mix and match. Choose a pair from an established gene pool, preferably a brother and sister, and they are more likely to result in attractive and healthy offspring. Do not worry about inbreeding--unlike mammals, Siamese fighting fish can inbreed brother-to-sister for up to eight generations before there are any ill effects.

Setting the Mood

Setting up the spawning tank is one of the most exciting steps in breeding bettas. Like humans, some Siamese fighting fish are very picky about the circumstances under which they will breed, but others are less so. A proper aquarium set-up will please even the most finicky of bettas.

Starting with a five to ten gallon aquarium, install a floor-heater underneath a thin layer of substrate. Fill the tank two-thirds full with pre-treated, pH-balanced, dechlorinated water, and install a very gently-flowing filter and a thermometer. Fill the tank with a few live plants to set the mood.

Next, take a Styrofoam cup, cut vertically down the center. Place each half of the cup, halfway submerged in the water, against the side of the tank, and tape it there, with the open side facing the glass. Place each one of these bisected cups on opposite sides of the aquarium.

Keep the temperature of the aquarium at a constant, stable temperature of 80-82 degrees for a day or two. When the plants, filter, and water are established and stable, it is time to introduce your two new bettas.

Spawning

Float the male and female both side-by side in floatable, clear cups (available at some supply stores) for about thirty minutes when they first meet. Allow them to both become used to the water temperature and surroundings of the new spawning tank. Hopefully, while in the cups, they will begin showing interest in each other.

Male and female bettas are obvious about their courtship rituals, which often begin while they are still separated by plastic bags. A male will begin flaring his fins at the female, dancing ostentatiously to get her attention. The female will change her colors to show vertical stripes along her body, and may "stand on her head", often looking somewhat ill. Later in the process, her breeding tube, just behind her pelvic fin, will become visible.

After about an hour, or sooner if the male is clearly trying to get the female's attention, release him into the tank. He will most likely begin building a bubble nest by blowing foam-like bubbles onto the surface layer of the water, probably under the bisected Styrofoam cups. This process may take anywehere from a few hours to several days. Leave the female separate during this time, until the bubble nest is somewhat completed.

When the nest has grown large, release the female. It is likely that they will begin mating almost immediately, if they have bonded during this time. Even if the mating does not occur instantly, they will spend the next few hours or days dancing, sparring, and chasing each other as they prepare to breed. If they fight visciously and either one of them seems to become seriously injured, put the female back in the floating cup until she has recovered, and try again in about a week.

The two will decide to mate, usually within a few hours or days, and without too much injury. The male will at this point encourage the female to follow him to the nest, where he will repeatedly embrace her, squeezing eggs out of her by wrapping his body around hers. When this occurs, do not be alarmed if the female looks like she is dead. She will lie motionless, as if in a trance, while he retrieves the eggs that fall to the bottom of the tank. He will then deposit the eggs in the bubble nest.

When the female comes out of her trace, remove her immediately, as her part in mating is now complete. Failure to remove her quickly enough may result in the male killing her, or in her eating all the eggs. If you can't see the eggs, don't worry: they're there! They are clear-white and only about the size of the period at the end of this sentence.

Raising the Fry

Add a small amount of commercial antifungal water treatment to the spawning tank after breeding, or the bubble nest is likely to become infected by fungi. Some aquarists may also cover the tank with a layer of plastic cling-film, which keeps cool air from getting into the tank and harming the delicate bubble nest. If the male has built the nest in the cups, this is usually not necessary.

About three days after the spawning, tiny blackish dots will begin falling out of the nest to the bottom of the aquarium. Believe it or not, these are baby bettas! The male will usually pick them up and deposit them back in the nest for the first several days or weeks. If he begins eating his offspring, remove him from the tank promptly, but if he is continuing to care for them, it is okay to let him stay. If they fall to the bottom of the tank and are not retrieved, this is fine. They can wait there until they become able to swim.

When removed from the spawning tank, the male may become sluggish and depressed. Care for him properly during this time, as he may become prone to infection or sudden death. Feeding him extra treats may help him to get back on track within a few days. Wait at a month before breeding either of them again.

Fry can be fed commercial fry food, every four hours, starting around their third or fourth day. By a few weeks of age, they become free-swimming and can be seen floating deliberately around the tank. At around five weeks of age, they grow their labyrinth organ, which allows them to breathe air, and will come to the surface to breathe.

It will take about seven or eight months before your bettas become what you normally think of when you hear the word "betta". Until then, they have little color or character, and may appear drab and small. When their sexes start becoming apparent, the males will become aggressive with each other, and will need to be isolated into isolated tanks, bowls, or even mason jars, if they are going to be sold. Be sure to keep the individual bowls or jars carefully cleaned and maintained.

Although the fry may be up to a year old before they achieve optimum coloration, they are ready to breed as soon as they begin displaying their sexes, and this is also a good time to sell them, whethe individually or in brother-sister pairs.

Breeding Siamese fighting fish is an enjoyable and addictive hobby. Many aquarists find that it can quickly go from being an interest to being a career, or even an obsession. Over time, individual breeders can develop their own unique, exciting strains of showable, sellable bettas, and may find themselves passionately involved in the exciting field of betta care.

King Betta Variety Sold at Petco

Bettas come in array of shapes, sizes, and colors, all of which have been accentuated by hundreds of years of distinct and selective breeding. Aquarium hobbyists and betta breeders have become very excited in the past few months since pet retail giant Petco began stocking show-quality bettas and bettas with atypical finnage. Among the many varieties now carried by the store, the so-called king betta has been a tremendous hit within fish hobbyist communities.

The king betta is not an ancient breed or a widely known strain, and appears to be a label used exclusively by the distributers and breeders who supply to Petco. Betta breeding projects and shows do not recognize a fin type, color, species, or strain known officially as a king betta, and this led to a confusion among aquarists and fishkeepers. Just what IS a king betta, if it doesn't clearly fall into any other known breed or category?

There are several potential answers, and even the staff of Petco seem as clueless as the customers regarding the nature of king bettas. When I asked the staff, including the managers, what these intriguing fish were, they shrugged their shoulders and said, "I think it's a kind of betta." (Just in case I wasn't aware of that yet.) A friendly phone call to the distributor was equally fruitless. It would appear that we betta enthusiasts have been left to fend for ourselves in determing what a king betta actually is.

King bettas meet the description and measurement requirements to be called plakats, a fin-and-tail type most often associated with wild strains. All species of betta, including the popular Siamese fighting fish, or betta splendens, display the plakat fin and tail type unless they have been selectively bred for different finnage. Plakat bettas have short, tight fins, strong bodies, and are generally considered to be less aggressive than long-finned varieites.

Identifying the king betta's fin and tail type does not necessarily distinguish its species, however. Some betta hobbyists believe that the king betta is not a full-blooded betta, splendens, but a hybrid between betta splendens and the less popular betta raja, a species discovered in 2005. Some betta enthusiasts also contend that Petco's king betta is simply a well-bred, newly domesticated strain of betta raja.

Still, the exotic nature of betta raja does not necessarily mean that it, or any other out-of-the-ordinary betta species necessarily went into the genetic mix of the king betta. It may simply be a large or giant breed of betta splendens, carefully selected from crowntail, plakat, and/or giant breeding stock. Without a clear pedigree or explanation from Petco or the distributor, the heritage of the king betta remains elusive.

The lack of clarity regarding the king betta's nature is an obstacle for fishkeepers. Without knowing the king betta's genetic background, it is impossible to guage an individual's age based on its size or finnage. Are the king bettas sold at Petco large because they are very old (in general, past breeding age) or because they are descended from giant betta splendens? With limited access to understanding of the breed, there is no way to know with certainty, and there is no way to weigh the possibility of breeding them.

Without knowing the king betta's genealogy, it is also difficult to determine how to care for it properly. While domesticated betta splendens are extremely hardy and can tolerate small spaces and low temperatures, the newly discovered betta raja species is known to be much less forgiving. If the individuals sold at Petco are adolescents who are not through growing, it also presents a complication: "giant" bettas should never be kept in less than a ten-gallon tank.

It is also difficult to make guesses about the king betta's nature without knowing its history. Some betta enthusiasts have suggested that they are fighter plakat surplus, meaning that they were bred for baiting, but sold to Petco under a new name to rid the company of surplus. Although plakats are generally much more docile than other strains, the king betta has been said to be very aggressive-- perhaps another indicator that it is of largely domesticated ancestry.

Although this new strain is exciting to betta enthusiasts, some are wary of buying a fish that they know so little about. While Petco's king betta may be beautiful and intriguing, I am one fishkeeper who is willing to sit back and wait to hear more feedback on the new breed before committing to caring for one.

Betta Fin and Tail Varieties

The betta, more accurately known as the Siamese fighting fish, is an ancient species of fish bred for hundreds of years to increase its coloration, fin forms, and pugnacity. As a result of centuries of careful breeding, dozens of varieties of betta fish tails and fins have developed, and many breeds are now available in home aquariums.

Betta tails can be roughly classified into several different basic forms.

Veil Tail

Bettas with veil tails are the most common form seen in pet shops, and the most frowned-upon form for high-quality betta showing and breeding. Veil tail bettas have caudal fins that arch and then flow behind the fish, looking like a wedding veil.

Double Tail

Double tailed bettas do not actually have two tails. Rather, they have an additional dorsal fin that is equal in length to the anal fin, creating the illusion of two tails or a lobed tail. The mutation is desirable for aesthetic purposes, but breeders must be careful when selecting double-tail bettas for breeding stock, because they often have spinal deformities or partial paralysis.

Plakat Tail

Pronounced pluh-COT, the Plakat tail betta is the oldest and most natural form of the species. Plakat tail bettas are not popular for aquarists seeking flashy ornamental fish, but betta enthusiasts enjoy them because they--like their wild ancestors--are active, stout, and healthy.

Crown Tail

Some betta strains have a unique and gorgeous appearance, caused by a mutation that reduces the webbing between fin rays. The result is a tail that looks spiked, as if it has prongs. The deeper the reduction of webbing is, the better, when it comes to show-quality crown tail bettas. Coloration that complements the mutation is especially attractive.

Comb Tail

A close relative of the crown tail, comb tail bettas have a similar reduction in the webbing between fin rays. However, the webbing is not reduced to the same extremity as crown-tails, and the visual effect is a slightly spikey appearance rather than a deeply pronged appearance.

Round Tail

Single-tail bettas, also called round tails, have neat, single tails with rounded edges. Although often confused with the delta tail (see below) they are in fact a different classification. An ideal round-tail betta has a nearly circular anal fin.

Delta Tail

A delta-tail betta looks similar to a round tail betta, but its tail fin extends further up, as to nearly touch its caudal and dorsal fins. Although the tail does not arch straight up (as in the halfmoon tail betta), it extends upward in a fan-like shape. Bettas with extreme delta tails that are not quite wide enough to be classified as half-moons are called super deltas.

Half Moon Tail

A spectacular sight to behold and a popular attraction at betta shows, the enviable half-moon tail betta has a large tail that extends fully upward and outward, to create a full 180-degree semicircle. The tail makes a complete "D" shape that runs perpendicular to the betta's spine and is symmetrical on all sides.

Rose Tail

Selective breeding of the halfmoon tail betta has created a unique strain called the rose tail, which looks like the half moon tailed betta, but with extreme overlapping of all three fins. The angles of the rose tail betta's wide anal fin are so broad that it actually overlaps the caudal and dorsal fin. This mutation is beautiful, but carries some drawbacks, and individuals with the trait have difficulty swimming and often spawn sickly or deformed fry.

Spade Tail

Spade tail bettas, as the name suggests, have simple, single, rounded tails with pointed ends. Although once a very popular breed--even outselling the veil tail in some areas--it is now somewhat obscure and has fallen out of popularity in home aquaria.

Dwarf Gourami Care Guide

The dwarf gourami (colisa lalia) is an active, colorful fish that can be ideal for stocking small and medium aquariums. These tropical beauties can be moderately difficult to care for, but they can be a rewarding addition to large community tank or a small, species-focused nano-aquarium. As a long-time aquarist with a love of small tanks, I have been very satisfied with every dwarf gourami I have owned. This species' beauty and personality far exceed its diminutive size.

The Dwarf Gourami

I have jokingly referred to dwarf gourami as the "pugs of the fish tank". Just as pug dogs have all the personality of larger breeds, dwarf gourami mimic the behavior and appearance of larger fish. While most individuals of the species only grow to about 1.5-2 inches in length, their appearance is so rich and exotic that they could be mistaken for cichlids or saltwater fish at first glance.

The colisa lalia species is endemic to specific regions of Pakistan, India, and Bangladesh, but it has spread its wild territory because humans have introduced it to non-native streams and ponds. Wild-type dwarf gourami are the hardiest and most beautiful, and are marked by iridescent red-and-blue stripes. Powder-blue, neon-red, neon-blue, and "rainbow" varieties have also been selectively bred, but I have found them to be weak and sickly compared to their wild-type cousins. Females are drabber and slightly smaller than males.

Water Conditions

Dwarf gourami can survive, and even thrive, in a somewhat wide range of water conditions, and their needs are similar to most other tropical fish. A dwarf gourami's ideal water temperature is in the upper seventies, though they can easily tolerate temperatures ranging from 70-84 degrees. Depending on the ambient temperature of the room, they may require a heater. While they can handle a wide range of temperatures, they do not handle abrupt fluctuations well.

Dwarf gourami do best in neutral-pH waters between 6.0-7.5, with water hardness between 4-10 dGH. Like other gourami species, the dwarf gourami has a labyrinth organ that allows it to breathe air from the water's surface, so it can survive in relatively low-oxygen environments. Still, it has a somewhat low tolerance for ammonia and nitrate buildup, so a clean tank is essential.

Habitat and Tank Setup

Dwarf gourami originated in warm, thickly vegetated waters, and they will thrive in an aquarium that mimics these conditions. I have had excellent results keeping dwarf gourami in well-planted tanks with java moss, java fern, water sprite, and Amazon sword plants. Natural wood and lava rock enhance the beauty of the tank, and can also help the fish to feel more at-home. Dwarf gourami seem to do poorly in tanks with too much open-water.

The colors of dwarf gourami truly "pop" against mid-level lighting and darkly colored substrate. I have also enjoyed using drab, earthen tones--brown, orange, and burnt-red-- to create a treasure-box effect. A school of neon tetras and a pair of dwarf gourami will look stunning against an earth-toned background. Don't allow gaudy ornaments to distract from the dwarf gourami's natural beauty.

Tank Size

My two current dwarf gourami, "Ziggy" and "Stardust", are doing very well in a densely-planted, three-gallon tank that receives twice-weekly water changes, but many aquarists have found any tank smaller than 10 gallons to be inadequate, even for a single fish. Ultimately, each fish's needs will vary. A fish's ability to thrive in a small aquarium will depend on the stability of the water chemistry, the frequency of water changes, the presence of other fish, and how well-planted the tank is.

For beginning aquarists, I would recommend keeping dwarf gourami in a tank no smaller than ten gallons. In a larger tank, gourami can have the added benefit of having a few companions, such as a pair of dwarf corydoras or a community of ghost shrimp, which can help to scavenge leftover food and keep the aquatic ecosystem balanced. Regular water-changes and water-tests are essential, especially in small aquaria.

Feeding

Dwarf gourami will readily accept commercial flake foods. An omnivorous blend (preferably one made for gourami species) is an ideal staple. Look for a fish food that contains both algae-based and animal-based ingredients, and avoid anything with added fillers or by-products. Be careful not to overfeed: a good guideline is to use half the quantity recommended by the manufacturer. A one-day fast each week can prevent the complications associated with overfeeding.

In a well-planted tank, a dwarf gourami will supplement his own diet by nibbling on bits of decaying plant matter. Although they are not bottom-feeders, they will occasionally eat algae from substrate or from the sides of the tank. I enjoy supplementing my gourami's diets with bloodworm, which can provide a solid, nutritious protein source as an occasional treat.

Tank Mates

Dwarf gourami do best when they are kept in pairs, and they tend to be peaceful. Rarely, two male dwarf gourami may fight if they are kept in very close quarters, but this is not a common problem if they are properly fed and if the tank size is adequate. More often, dwarf gourami are bullied by more aggressive gourami species, such as bettas, and they may be killed if they do not have a safe hiding-place in the tank. They should not be kept with aggressive species for this reason.

Dwarf gourami can do well if they are kept with other small-statured fish of similar temperament. Neon, cardinal, and glo-light tetras are ideal tankmates, as are livebearers such as guppies, platies, and swordtails. Bottom-feeders, such as dwarf corydoras catfish, are helpful companions, as are ghost and cherry shrimp. Overall, the dwarf gourami can do very well in a community tank, and can adapt to a wide variety of water conditions.

Betta Types and Color Varieties

The Siamese fighting fish, also known as betta splendens or simply betta, is one of the most popular fish for home aquariums. Because it is such a hardy, beautiful fish, it is ideal for beginners who are learning the works of proper fish care. The betta is an ancient species, selectively bred for hundreds of years to create dozens of distinct strains. Despite this, few new aquarists realize the vast array of colors present in the betta species.

As a betta owner and breeder, I've worked with and witnessed many distinct and gorgeous varieties of color in individual bettas. The following are the most popular and desirable color types for bettas.

Black

Black, or melano, bettas are an uncommon color variety, because they are notoriously difficult to breed. Their color ranges from a deep onyx color to a smokey black, and they may resemble livebeare black mollies at first glance. Most black female bettas are sterile, so creating consistent strains can be nearly impossible, even for the most accomplished breeders.

White

Bettas, like most fish species, sometimes have albino individuals that appear in otherwise colored gene pools. Albino bettas have pink or red eyes and completely transparent fins, and are extremely rare. The non-albino white betta is slightly more common, and has a pearlescent body with black eyes.

Red

Red bettas are very common, and one of the most widely seen varieties in pet stores and home aquaria because they are easy to breed. Some red bettas have a sheen of blue, white, or brown, which pulls away from the total, deep vermillion color seen as desirable by breeders.

Violet

True violet bettas are rare, but bettas may appear violet in color if they are red with a blue sheen, or blue with a red sheen. Although some amateur aquarists like the look of opaque sheens that create alternating color effects, most breeders frown upon these strains because they tend to cross-pollute gene pools with undesirable traits and unpredictable fry.

Royal Blue

Another very common variety, royal blue bettas are easy to breed and usually a cornflower-type color. Ideally, they have no sheen of red, green, or any other opaque color, but most inexpensive bettas of this variety have other traits.

Metallic Blue

Steel blue, or metallic blue, bettas are identical to royal blue bettas, but with a light metallic or whitish sheen. Some of them appear to be greenish or grayish in color. There is conflict within the betta breeding community about whether or not metallic blue is a desirable trait.

Turquouise

Difficult to breed, the turqouise betta is a rare beauty when it is consistently colored throughout. However, most turqouise bettas have flecks of black, blue, white, green, or any other sheen color. They most often have green base tones with pale blue sheens.

Green

True forest-green bettas with no sheens or undertones are the Holy Grail of betta breeding, because they are nearly impossible to acheive. The genes involved in breeding green bettas are complex and not fully understood, so they vary widely across generations. Most green bettas have blue-gray, blue-green, or blackish sheens, but many breeders work to eliminate this.

Yellow

Pastel-yellow bettas are a variation of the red gene, so many yellow bettas have red undertones or markings. Many yellow strains are polluted with brown tints or overly pale shades, but some breeders have successfully created strains of butter-yellow and gold betta.

Peach

Peach bettas are usually the result of pale-yellow bettas with red-orange sheens. These varieties are difficut to breed across generations and sometimes dubbed "pineapple" bettas or "apricot" bettas. The apricot coloration is strongest on the betta's fins.

Chocolate

Actual brown bettas are rare, and some breeders even say that they are nonexistant. However, bettas may appear chocolate in color if they have tightly-checkered yellow and brown fins. Some breeders strengthen chocolate gene pools by breeding chocolate bettas with black or yellow mates.

Betta breeding  a thrilling, addictive hobby that acts as a constant reminder of the beauty and splendor of Mother Nature's own fantastic breeding programs. Constant advances in the exciting field of betta breeding constantly yield new varieties of color within the species.

10 Facts About Paradise Fish

Because of its hardy nature and tolerance of low temperatures, the paradise fish is frequently kept in home aquariums. Although its aggression makes it unsuitable for community tanks, the paradise fish thrives in small aquariums even without a heater.

The paradise fish is a very interesting species with a rich history. Consider these ten interesting facts about the paradise fish.

1. Along with the common goldfish, the paradise fish is one of the oldest species of domesticated fish. In 1665, Samuel Pepps described the Chinese keeping paradise fish in glass systems that we would now refer to as an aquarium.

2. The paradise fish is a labyrinth fish; it has a lung-like organ that enables it to breathe small amounts of air.

3. Female paradise fish are smaller than males and have less impressive coloration.

4. While Macroodus opercularis is known as the "true" paradise fish, other related fish share the name. The brown spike-tailed paradise fish, for example, is smaller and much more elegant.

5. There are several domesticated strains of paradise fish, including powder-blue varieties, albino fish and individuals with more intense coloration.

6. Wild-type paradise fish have colors and patterns similar to dwarf gourami and giant gouarmi-- two distantly related species.

7. Male paradise fish tend to fight violently with other anabantid species. Never keep a paradise fish with a betta, gourami or climbing perch. they may also display aggression toward long-finned species like the angelfish.

8. Paradise fish lay their eggs in bubble nests. The male blows a web of saliva-coated bubbles underneath a broad-leafed plant at the surface of the water. He then mates with the female and deposits the eggs in the nest.

9. Paradise fish change their colors depending on mood, temperature, water quality and breeding interest. A paradise fish color change should be interpreted as a sign that something has changed in the fish's health or in the quality of the aquarium water.

10. Adolescent paradise fish begin to show gender differences between 2-4 months of age.

Honey Gourami Fact Sheet

The honey gourami is less known than its close cousin, the dwarf gourami. When kept in poor conditions, this little labyrinth fish is colorless and dull. However, the males display beautiful coloration when they are kept in ideal conditions. If you are interested in caring for honey gouramis, educate yourself about their needs. Good conditions will improve the life span, color and behavior of this tiny aquatic gem.

Size

An adult honey gourami will grow to roughly one and a half to two inches in length.

Tank Size

Honey gourami can thrive in surprisingly small tanks. Five gallons is minimal but acceptable.

Strata

The honey gourami roams the middle and upper strata of your aquarium.

Water pH

Honey gourami can tolerate a wide pH range between 6.0 and 8.0.

Water Parameters

These hardy fish look their best in low-nitrate waters, but they can tolerate levels as high as 90 ppm. Keep ammonia and nitrite levels undetectable.

Temperature

A honey gourami wil lshow its best colors at a temperature of 72-82 degrees.

Tank Set-Up

Honey gourami prefer densely planted tanks with slow-moving water. Include plenty of floating and benthic plants.

Social Behaviors

Honey gourami do best in pairs with one male and one female. Do not keep them with other anabantids, such as bettas, or they may fight.

Feeding

Your honey gourami fish will do best on fine-grade dry flake foods. Small live and frozen foods, including tubifex and bloodworm, are also acceptable.