Using Sea Salt to Raise pH in a Freshwater Aquarium

A stable pH is essential for a healthy aquarium ecosystem. Almost all freshwater fish thrive at a pH between 5.5 and 7.5, but a fish's exact needs for alkalinity or acidity may vary. While some fish, such as domseticated strains of tetras, barbs, livebearers and danios, can tolerate a surprisingly broad pH range. Many healthy guppies, for example, can handle any pH between 4.5 and 8.5.

Nevertheless, even if you have a hardy species on your hands, it's important to tailor the chemistry of your fish tank to suit the individual needs of the fish in your care. Fish species that need alkaline water will experience weakened immunity, infertility and, eventually, death if they are in an unsuitably acidic environment. Similarly, fish with a preference for slightly acidic water, such as cardinal tetras, will have similar symptoms if exposed to an alkaline environment.

When to Adjust your pH

In a freshwater aquarium, pH adjustment should never be pursued as guess-work. The only way to know when to adjust your pH is to measure the pH of your aquarium using a litmus strip or other testing device. You should perform this test at least two to four times per month, especially when establishing a new aquarium. The testing device should give you a close, accurate measurement of your fish tank's pH.

If you are keeping multiple species in a non-biotope community tank, you may need to calculate the ideal range of alkalinity or acidity that will fit every species in your care. For example, if you are keeping both guppies, who prefer alkaline water, and neon tetras, who prefer acidic water, your ideal pH range will be approximately neutral, or 6.5-7.5. If your current pH is lower than necessary, sea salt is one option to raise the water's pH to an acceptable level.

Sea Salt Function

Sea salt is composed almost entirely of sodium chloride, which is the same form of salt used for culinary purposes. Although salt itself has a neutral pH, it contains several ionic minerals, such as calcium and magnesium, which have a higher pH than unaltered water. Due to dissolved minerals, ocean water itself has a pH slightly above 8, which is appropriate for saltwater and brackish-water species. Trace amounts of sea salt may increase the pH of a freshwater tank.

The amount of sea salt that you should use will depend upon the salinity tolerance of the species in your care. Add no more than one half-teaspoon of sea salt per 10 gallons of aquarium water per week, while carefully monitoring your pH with a litmus test and the specific gravity (salinity) of your tank with a hydrometer. Stop adding sea salt as soon as your readings near the salt-tolerance threshold of the species in your care, or as soon as you achieve a tolerable pH-- whichever comes first.

Dangers and Risks

The addition of sea salt to a freshwater aquarium may be harmful under some circumstances. Although some brackish-dwelling, saline-tolerant species such as the sailfin molly can tolerate salt levels as high as 1.020, some freshwater fish perish at any pH above 1.001. For this reason, it is essential that you maintain an awareness of the salt tolerance theshold for every fish in your aquarium. Improper use of sea salt can lead to the death of every fish in the tank.

Several alternatives may increase aquarium pH with fewer risks than sea salt. Most pet supply stores offer liquid mineral supplements designed to heighten the pH of your aquarium's water. Small amounts of baking soda, used carefully, can accomplish the same task. Additionally, certain ornaments, such as seashells, will harden and alkalinize your water chemistry.

5 Ways to Get Rid of Algae in Your Aquarium

Algae is the worst enemy of aquarists. You can have a beautifully decorated aquarium full of healthy fish and stunning decor, but if the sides of your aquarium are smeared with green goop, there's not a person in the world who will find it beautiful! That's why it's so important to take steps to prevent and reduce algae in your aquarium. Here are five things you can do.

1. Stock properly.

A tank with too many fish in it will have high levels of nitrate, a nutrient that algae thrives on. As tempting as it is to go overboard and put as many fish as you can fit inside that glass box of yours, this is one urge you've got to resist. Overstocked tanks are prone to algae overgrowth.

2. Use live plants.

Live plants help sop up nitrates in leftover food and fish poo. A tank with lots of live plants will rarely have much algae, because your live ornamental plants will "eat" most of the nutrients that algae would need.

3. Get algae-eating fish... cautiously.

Almost every beginning aquarist starts out with a plecostomus, also known as a pleco or "sucker fish." These guys do eat algae, but they can also grow to over three feet in length, so you won't be able to accommodate your pleco long-term. It's also important to bear in mind that any fish will increase your tank's nitrate load, so putting algae-eating fish in an overstocked tank will only worsen the problem. Consider getting several otocinclus catfish if your tank can support them.

4. Change your water regularly.

All fish tanks should undergo a 20-25% water change once a week. Sounds like a lot of work, huh? It's part of the job if you want a healthy and beautiful ecosystem in your aquarium. Water changes reduce the levels of nutrients in your water, making it harder for algae to grow.

5. As a last resort, use chemical treatments.

If all of the above measures haven't worked, you may need to use a chemical treatment and start over. Buy an algae-destroying liquid at your local pet supply store. Bear in mind that it will also be toxic to other plants, and to some sensitive animals, so you'll need to follow the directions carefully. After you've used the treatment, start following the other steps for algae prevention to avoid a resurgence of the green slimy stuff.

Algae can make an otherwise beautiful fish tank look dreadful, but there are always solutions. Take measures to keep your tank healthy, and algae will become a significantly less serious problem in your aquarium.

Planted Freshwater Aquarium Chemistry

If you're new to the fishkeeping hobby, the chemistry of a planted freshwater aquarium can look extremely intimidating and complicated. What's the difference between nitrate and nitrite? How did ammonia get into your tank? What's the deal with this dissolved oxygen stuff?

The water chemistry of a planted aquarium is actually far simpler, and far less daunting, than it may seem. Here's a basic overview of the chemicals found in a planted freshwater aquarium.

Nitrite

Nitrite is a major discussion-point for enthusiasts of freshwater aquarium chemistry. Nitrite is an important nutrient, but it is extremely toxic to almost all species of freshwater fish. When organic matter, such as dead leaves or fish poop, decays, it releases nitrite into the water. In a new aquarium, this scary chemical lingers and can quickly cause the death of every fish in the aquarium. Fortunately, if your aquarium is well-established, it turns into nitrate. Your nitrite levels should be undetectable after your aquarium is established.

Nitrate

Despite the similarity in name and chemistry, nitrate and nitrite are functionally quite different. Specialized bacteria found in your filter, water and substrate consume nitrite and convert it into nitrate. In a planted freshwater aquarium, your benthic plants will absorb much of the nitrate in your water. If it is left unchecked, nitrate levels can cause algae blooms and fish death. Nitrate levels should ideally stay below 20 parts per million in an established planted aquarium, but most fish can tolerate levels as high as 60 parts per million for short periods of time. Note that nitrate supports plant growth, despite its reputation as a fish-killer.

Ammonia

When you hear the word ammonia, "poison" should be the first word that pops into your head. Ammonia from fish poop, fish food and decaying plant matter can build up in your aquarium's chemistry, and even relatively low levels can cause your fish to die-- quickly. If you notice an unpleasant or urine-like odor emanating from your water, get to work immediately on doing a large water change. Aquatic plants can help to slightly reduce ammonia levels, but it ultimately takes deligent owner-involvement to keep ammonia levels where they need to be.

Phosphate

Most people who keep planted freshwater aquariums do not need to test for phosphate. This nutrient is not particularly toxic to fish, but it might be worth checking for if you experience algae blooms. Phosphate from fish food and polluted tapwater can help to encourage the growth of your live aquatic plants, and your benthic plants are instrumental in keeping levels low. However, for the most part, there's really no need to be concerned about your aquarium's phosphate levels.

How to Read Aquarium Water Test Strips

Are you new to keeping freshwater aquariums? As someone who has been keeping fish for half my life time, I've got to say that one of the most important things to do-- if you plan to keep fish alive or more than a month-- is to use test strips to check you water parameters at least once a week, and to perform water changes and adjust your water chemistry as necessary. But to someone who's new to the hobby, water chemistry test strips can seem intimidating and confusing. After all, you were signing up to own a school of tetras, not to be an expert chemist! Relax, though. Aquarium test strips are easier to decode than you think.

Most test strips offer five-in-one testing; they'll tell you five important pieces of information about your water at once. The strips will come with a key so you can easily read them. Here are the most common things you'll check for on a test strip.

Nitrite:

This is a nutrient found in water polluted by fish waste, and it's incredibly toxic. Fortunately, nitrite usually only occurs in a new aquarium, and usually for only a few weeks (until special bacteria colonize your tank and convert it to the far less toxic substance, nitrate. Your nitrite levels need to be as close to zero as possible. If there's even a trace of nitrite in your aquarium's water, you need change your water until it's down to undetectable levels. When you have a new tank, you may need to do this almost daily, but after your aquarium is established, nitrite should become a thing of the past.

Nitrate:

Far less toxic than its parent-chemical, nitrite, nitrate occurs in water after your tank is established. When your fishies poop and pee and when food and plants decay, bacteria break the waste down into nitrate. It's normal to have some nitrate and is, in fact, a good sign that you've got those friendly bacteria in your tank! But, while most fish can tolerate some nitrate, you want to keep levels as low as possible. Too much nitrate encourages the growth of algae, and the death of algae leads to more nitrate production, creating a vicious cycle. Live plants, good filtration, proper feeding, and (most importantly!) regular water changes can all help you reduce nitrate levels in your tank.

pH:

This isn't nearly as big of a deal as you probably think it is! Most fish have a pH preference (some like relatively hard or relatively soft water) and this has led many people to think that pH problems in aquariums are common. They're not! Unless you're breeding fish or keeping extremely temperamental species, your pH isn't anything to worry about as long as it's not extreme. You want your pH to be around 7 unless you're keeping a special biotope tank. If you're new to the game and not doing anything fancy, don't worry and don't mess with your pH unless it is either very high or very low (lower than 4 or higher than 10).

Hardness:

Hardness is, essentially, a measure of the amount of mineral dissolved into your water. Most (and again, I say most, because if you're keeping temperamental fish they are an exception) freshwater fish can adapt to almost any water hardness. The only time you really need to worry about water hardness is if you're keeping high-maintenance fish with a strong preference for soft or hard water, or if you're breeding fish of any type. Until you're a little more experienced in the fishkeeping hobby, it's best to stay away from any fish sensitive to hard or soft water, anyway.

Chlorine:

I'm not sure why so many test strips check for chlorine. Almost everyone, even newbies, know that tap water contains chlorine and that water needs to be conditioned with a dechlorinator before fish can be added to it. Even if you accidentally forgot to add water conditioner after a partial water change at some point in the past, it probably evaporated after a few hours and is undetectable now. You'll probably never see chlorine on your test strip at all, but if you do, make sure you're using water conditioner!

Aquarium test strips aren't the scary scientific boogeyman you might fear. With just a little extra help and guidance, you'll soon be reading these strips routinely and won't think anything of it!

Eco-Friendly Fishkeeping

As a hobby, fishkeeping commands respect for the natural world. When I first began keeping fish ten years ago, I didn't anticipate how profoundly the hobby would impact my desire to protect the natural world. When we see harmonious ecosystems flourishing in our own homes, they act as a gentle reminder of our fragile planet's endless beauty. Given this, it isn't surprising that most aquarists are conscientious of our hobby's impact on the natural world. Without conservation, the Great Barrier Reef, the Amazon River, and Lake Victoria-- some of the sources of the world's most beautiful plants and animals-- may vanish from the planet forever.

Fortunately, the fishkeeping hobby doesn't have to exploit the wild, natural world-- in fact, careful aquarists can actually use their hobby to advance conservation efforts. Setting up a eco-friendly aquarium is no simple task, but it can be a rewarding experience. With a sustainable microcosm in your own living room, you can enjoy ornamental fish without abusing their natural habitats.

The Freshwater Choice

Many environmentalists cringe when they consider the environmental impact of the saltwater aquarium industry. While it is possible to create a conscientious reef setup, the task is daunting. Unlike freshwater ornamental fish, which are usually captive-bred, saltwater fish are usually wild-caught using unsustainable fishing techniques. In many parts of the world, ornamental fish are captured using cyanide, which seriously damages reef ecosystems and kills many of the captive fish.

Reefers are entitled to their own choices, but there is no doubt that the wild-sourced saltwater fish industry wreaks havoc on the environment. In general, freshwater fish are hardier and easier to breed in captivity, so green-thinking aquarists often choose to forgo the ecological complications associated with saltwater. For the sake of simplicity, the remainder of this article deals primarily with the environmental implications of freshwater aquaria.

Dwindling Populations

To select truly sustainable specimens, aquarists may have to forgo some of their favorite species-- or pay top-dollar for captive-bred fish. Some of the most common ornamental species are finicky about breeding in captivity, so wild populations have dwindled. One sad example of this is the dwarf loach (Y. sidthimunki) is critically endangered due to overfishing for the aquarium trade. Because remaining specimens are so severely inbred, this two-inch cyprinid will almost certainly become extinct in the immediate future.

The dwarf loach isn't the only freshwater fish that may soon disappear. The beautiful White Cloud Mountain minnow (T. albonubes) is also critically endangered. Breeding efforts have slowed the decline of this fish's wild population, but it still faces the serious and imminent threat of extinction. Another tiny gem, the celestial pearl danio (C. margaritatus) was nearly eradicated only a few years after its discovery, but has also been rescued through the efforts of dedicated breeders.

Other endangered, threatened, and conservation-dependent freshwater aquarium fish include favorites like the dwarf pufferfish, twosaddle corydoras, cherry barb, Endler's livebearer, zebra pleco, Asian arowana, and dozens of species of African and South American cichlid. These beauties are haunted not only by overzealous fishing for the aquarium trade, but also by habitat destruction and invasive species. Responsible aquarists may choose to support businesses that sell only captive-bred specimens of these beautiful creatures.

The Good News

While the fishkeeping hobby has left a negative mark on some fish populations, it has also been a helpful aspect of conservation. Lake Victoria has lost many of its endemic cichlids due to population pressures, pollution, and invasive species, and cichlid enthusiasts have been especially active in fund-raising and education to save the lake. Additionally, many saltwater fishkeepers are actively involved in efforts to halt the destruction of coral reefs. By spreading interest in ornamental fish, hobbyists call attention to the plight of wild aquatic ecosystems.

In some cases, even wild-caught fish may actually help the environment. The cardinal tetra (P. axelrodi) has an abundant wild population and breeds prolifically in its natural South American environment. Natives of the Orinoco and Negro river areas harvest these beautiful fish for use in the aquarium trade-- an opportunity that allows them to earn income without resorting to deforestation. The cardinal tetra has been touted as a "Fair Trade" aquarium resident: it provides employment for indigenous populations and, in doing so, helps save the rainforest.

Aquarists can help save wild ecosystems by supporting local stores that carry captive-bred and sustainably caught fish. Dedicated breeders may also choose to spawn, raise, and sell species that are endangered or threatened with endangerment. In doing so, they help to preserve wild populations and encourage respect for the natural world. Conscientious fishkeeping is the first step toward protecting the creatures we love.

The Carbon Fin-Print

Fish tanks themselves can have a significant impact on the planet. Light fixtures, heaters, and filtration systems all require a constant input of electricity-- and, for most of us, our electricity is sourced in fossil-fuels. High energy needs threaten local and global ecosystems, some aquarists choose tank set-ups that will require the least amount of electricity. Over time, energy-efficient tanks can save both carbon and money.

Most ornamental fish are endemic to tropical regions, so a heater is usually viewed as a necessity for keeping a viable, healthy aquarium. However, several ornamental fish species are capable of thriving in colder waters, and some even prefer them. To conserve energy, conscientious aquarists may choose a cold-water tank stocked with hardy, cold-tolerant species like zebra danios, pearl danios, golden barbs, Buenos Aires tetras, and bloodfin tetras. Many cyprinids, including goldfish and rosy barbs, actually prefer cooler temperatures.

Lighting fixtures can also increase an aquarium's carbon requirements. Fortunately, inefficient incandescent bulbs are only rarely used in home aquaria. Most aquarists instead choose fluorescent, compact-fluorescent, metal halide, and LED fixtures. These are far more energy-efficient and provide a more complete spectrum for growing benthic plants. Still, to minimize the amount of energy needed, some fishkeepers choose to leave lights on for the minimum amount of time required by the plants in the tank.

Other Considerations

We often fail to consider the ecological implications of "minor" choices in aquascaping-- like what kind of driftwood to buy or which form of substrate we should use. Unfortunately, aquarium decorations are responsible for a large portion of the hobby's ecological impact. While there are no across-the-board rules for choosing sustainable aquarium decorations, it is generally best to select natural, minimally processed, and minimally packaged options.

While plastic aquarium ornaments can be good choices for beginning aquarists, they are not always the most ecologically sound option. These decorations are highly processed and require massive amounts of fossil fuels. However, driftwood, live plants, and natural rock can be very sustainable options-- and they're less likely to contain synthetic contaminants and dyes. The rustic appearance of a natural aquarium pays homage to nature, while also helping to protect the environment.

Fishkeeping is a magical hobby: no other interest can provide millions of people the opportunity to peek into the hidden windows of the natural world. Aquaria are tiny dioramas--glimpses of a world that few land-bound creatures have an opportunity to observe. If we choose to keep ornamental fish in our homes, we should also choose to protect the world we share with them.

Blackwater Biotope Aquarium Setup

A biotope aquarium is one that aims to imitate a natural habitat. Reef biotopes, for example, show a diverse array of marine fish native to a single reef ecosystem. As an aquarist, one of my favorite biotope set-ups is the classic black water evironment. These earthy, enchanting fish tank set-ups maintain a rustic, natural beauty and lack the gaudy aura of more "artificial" habitats.

In the wild, black water ecosystems occur in several parts of the world, including Southeast Asia, the Southern United States and several branches of the Amazon river. Black water ecosystems are named for their tea-stained appearance; tannins from peat and driftwood give the water a transparent but brown-tinted hue.

Some of the most beautiful tropical fish on the market originate in these ecosystems. The ever-popular neon tetra, for example, developed its bright colors so that individuals could identify one another within the tannin-rich waters of the Amazon. Many other dazzlingly colorful fish, including dozens of species of tetra, danio, loach and cichlid, thrive in wild black-water ecosystems and home black water set-ups.

To set up a black water tank, determine which ecosystem you intend to mimic. It's best to use a large aquarium of 55 gallons or more, but a five-fish school of small tetras may thrive in a black water tank of five gallons or smaller. Spread a thin layer of dark-colored sand or gravel on the bottom of the tank. Organize the space with roots and driftwood, laying them in a manner that creates plenty of hiding-spaces while also supplying open water for swimming. The driftwood or roots will gradually leach tannins into the water, giving the black water aquarium its characteristic tea-stained appearance.

Keep the filter on its slowest setting; black water fish generally prefer calm waters. Peat filtration is ideal, but not essential, for a black water biotope aquarium. You can jump-start your tank using a commercial black water extract; these products are sold at some specialty stores and contain extracts of peat and driftwood.

Some blackwater ecosystems contain plants, while others do not. An Amazon root ecosystem rarely contains many benthic plants; the intense shade and dark, acidic waters make it an imperfect environment for plants. Nevertheless, plants will not harm black water fish and may help to keep the tank's nitrate and ammonia levels suitably low. Set up your black water biotope aquarium with only minimal lighting; a single fluorescent tube should suffice.

Cycle your black-water tank without fish; give the water time to stabilize before adding your first shoal. Check water parameters regularly. Your tank is ready to stock when the nitrate levels are consistently below 10 ppm and ammonia levels are consistently undetectable. The water should remain soft and slightly acidic; an ideal black water biotope has a pH of 5.5-6.5 and has a hardness below 8 dH. Unless you are keeping only cold-tolerant tetra species, a heater is a must-have for your black water biotope aquarium set-up.

To maintain a natural biotope theme, select fish with similar origins. A South American black water tank could contain a shoal of twenty surface-dwelling tetras, such as hatchetfish, jewel tetras or rummy nose tetras. A small group of South American cichlids, such as angelfish or discus fish, act as the centerpieces for this aquarium; a school of corydoras catfish complete the mix. In small tanks, a miniature set-up might include a single angelfish, a school of five cardinal tetras, and three corydoras.

The Southeast Asian equivalent of this set-up would include a large shoal of cyprinids. Twenty to thirty tiger barbs or harlequin rasboras look dazzling schooling together in a large black water biotope tank. Instead of using cichlids as the centerpiece of this tank, the Southeast Asian version would include a small group of four to six large gourami-- choose between the several domesticated strains of the pearl gourami. A shoal of eight to ten clown loaches or dwarf loaches would make this system ecologically complete.

When setting up and maintaining your black water biotope fish tank, be sure to check your water parameters frequently, Many of the fish found in wild blackwater ecosystems are rather demanding; monitor your fish's health frequently. Perform routine maintenance water-changes, but use caution to prevent abrupt shifts in pH caused be reduced tannin levels. Black water biotope aquariums are hard work, but they pay you back for it by granting you a slice of nature in your own home.

How to Acidify the Water in Your Aquarium

The majority of freshwater aquariums, particularly community tanks, thrive at a neutral pH. If you are keeping a combination of fish with varying species and varying water requirements, your safest bet is to maintain a pH as close to 7, or neutral, as possible. Although almost all freshwater fish can survive at any pH between 6.5 and 8.5, some need more acidic water than average. To make your fish tank as viable as possible, maintain a pH balance in line with the needs of the species in your care.

Determine your target pH range by examining the needs of every fish in your tank. Ideally, you should have a biotope aquarium containing fish of similar or identical ecological backgrounds. For example, you have a "black water" biotope aquarium, which emulates the species an set-up of a tannin-rich, rainforested region of the Amazon, your water should be soft and slightly acidic, with a pH between 5.0 - 6.0. You should take measures to keep your pH within this range.

When to Acidify Your Water

To protect your fish, you need to acidify your aquarium any time that the pH exceeds the recommended range for the fish in your care. If you have a community tank and the pH nears or exceeds 7.5, or if your blackwater biotope aquarium rises above a pH of 6.5, you will need to promptly address the chemical problem to prevent injury or death of the fish in your care. The pH of your fish tank should remain relatively stable at all times, never fluctuating more than .1- .2 during any given week.

There is no way to tell the pH of an aquarium without testing it regularly. Most professional aquarists recommend that you test the pH of your aquarium using a litmus strip or similar testing device, available at your local pet supply store. Depending on how stable and established your fish tank is, you may need to test the pH as often as once per week, or as sparingly as one per month. Take measures to acidify your tank any time that your readings rise above your target range.

Natural Ways to Acidify Water

You can use natural ornaments and plant matter to acidify the water in your aquarium. In soft-water, acidic ecosystems such as those found in Amazon rainforest, the water is acidic because of the breakdown of peat, decomposing leaves and woods. This leads ot a high concentration of natural tannins in the water, and causes the classic "tea-stained" look associated with blackwater ecosystems.

You can add acidic tannins to your water naturally by adding unprocessed driftwood to your tank. Most fish supply stores sell rainforest wood appropriate for use in fish tanks. These products gradually release dark-colored, acidic tannins into the water, helping to raise the pH and give it a natural appearance. You can accomplish the same effect by adding a small amount of peat to your filtration system. Never add "wild" wood or peat to your tank unless you are very skilled and know exactly what you are collecting.

Commercial Products to Acidifiy Water

Several commercial products can help to acidify the water in your aquarium. One common solution is to purchase a water purifier which eliminates hard, alkaline minerals from your tap water. Perform a 50% water change with this purified water every three to four days until it reaches a stable pH similar to your target. Continue performing regular water changes with a purification system to prevent the alkalizing buildup of hard-water minerals.

Other commercial products, including the water additive "pH Down," contain weak acids designed to lower the pH of your aquarium. These can be reliable short-term solutions, but, as minerals in your aquarium buffer the acids, your water chemistry is likely to return to its original state. You may need to re-apply pH Down on a regular basis to prevent your aquarium's pH from spiking again. Test your water parameters regularly to assure that it is an appropriate environment for all the fish in your care.

Aquarium Air Pumps Don't Clean Your Fish Bowl

If you look at your local pet store, you'll notice dozens of small aquariums and fish bowls that are "filtered" by an air pump. A first-time aquarist can easily make the mistake of believing that these bubble-making machines somehow eliminate waste or toxins from a fish bowl or a small fish tank. They don't.

An air pump works by forcing air into the water, causing large bubbles to fill the water and then break at the surface. These can look interesting and may provide a modest increase in the amount of dissolved oxygen in your water, but the improvement won't be substantial. Ground-level air is composed almost entirely of nitrogen, and the bubbles pop quickly in your fish bowl, so very little of the air actually makes it to your fishies.

Air pumps do not offer any sort of filtration for an aquarium or small fish tank. They do not remove nitrates, ammonia, particulate matter, algae, nitrite, fish poop or excess food from the water. At best, they simply move it around. Only an actual filter will filter your fish tank.

Fortunately, air pumps are ultimately harmless for most ornamental fish. Some fish who you keep in your fish bowl or small tank will enjoy the fast-moving water, but others will not. The betta, for example-- the king of the fish bowl-- is adapted to live in small, stagnant pools. It will become exhausted in the presence of an air pump and may slump to the bottom of the tank.

Other fish that don't like air pumps include pearl gourami and discus. If you are interested in getting an air pump for your fish bowl or fish tank, confirm that your aquatic friends will benefit from these popular contraptions. Then go about finding a proper filter that will actually do the job of improving your fish tank's water quality.

Your local pet store should have several effective charcoal filters that will work for a small tank.